Kit kat fuse (rewireable), 10A and 16A — flush switchboard type with a pull-out fuse carrier, for fusing a point on a conventional (non-modular) board.
- Rewireable fuse for conventional (non-modular) switchboards, in 10A and 16A.
- Pull-out front carrier marked with the fuse symbol — rewire it without opening the board.
- Fuse wire in the carrier melts on overload or short circuit and cuts the supply.
- Refit only with fuse wire of the correct rating — never thicker wire.
- White flush plate that fixes on the board with two screws.
- Two screw terminals at the back for the incoming and outgoing phase wires.
- 10A in a narrow plate; 16A in a wider plate.
A kit kat fuse is a rewireable fuse: a pull-out carrier holds a short length of fuse wire, and the base stays wired into the circuit. If the circuit is overloaded or shorted, the wire melts — the fuse "blows" — and the supply stops until the carrier is rewired. This is the flush switchboard type, fixed on a conventional (non-modular) board with two screws beside your switches and sockets.
Protection depends entirely on the fuse wire: always refit wire of the correct rating, and never use thicker wire or copper strands to stop it blowing — that removes the protection and can start a fire. An MCB does the same job and resets with a switch; for heavier circuits, see our porcelain kit kat fuse units.
Which rating do I need
- 10A — lighting and fan circuits, 6A socket points and small appliances, typically on 1.5 sq mm cable.
- 16A — power sockets and appliances such as a geyser up to 3 kW, a washing machine or a microwave, typically on 2.5 sq mm cable.
The fuse must never be rated above what the cable can carry — your electrician will match it to the circuit.
Where to use it
- Fused socket, geyser and appliance points on conventional switchboards.
- Replacing an old, cracked or loose kit kat on an existing board.
- Older homes, shops and godowns wired with non-modular switches.
How to install
- Switch off the main supply and confirm the circuit is dead.
- Connect the incoming phase to one terminal and the outgoing phase (to the load) to the other — phase conductor only, never the neutral.
- Fix the unit on the switchboard with its two screws.
- Fit fuse wire of the correct rating in the carrier, tighten its screws and push the carrier home.
Electrical work should be done by a licensed electrician. Switch off the supply before pulling out the carrier.
Frequently asked questions
- What is a kit kat fuse?
- A rewireable fuse with two parts: a base wired into the circuit and a pull-out carrier that holds the fuse wire. When the wire melts on an overload or short circuit, you switch off, rewire the carrier and push it back.
- What fuse wire should I use?
- Fuse wire sold for the current you need, as marked on its card or reel — thinner wire blows at a lower current. Never use thicker wire or plain copper strands to stop a fuse from blowing.
- Why does my fuse keep blowing?
- Too much load on the circuit, a faulty appliance or motor, or a wiring fault. Switch off and have the circuit checked — fitting thicker wire only hides the fault and can start a fire.
- Kit kat fuse or MCB — which is better?
- An MCB trips more precisely and resets with a switch — the modern choice for distribution boards. A correctly wired kit kat still protects a point on a conventional switchboard and is simple and economical to replace.
- Does a fuse protect against electric shock?
- No. A fuse acts on overload and short circuit only. Protection against shock from earth leakage needs an RCCB of 30 mA or less.
Buy kit kat fuses online from Electric Market, Chennai. For site, contractor or bulk quantities, contact us for a quote.